Venue review of Aqua Clifton (Whiteladies Road)
Taken from Venue 6 – 15 March 09, words by Tony Benjamin
They’ve done a good job on the place, I think, as I stand outside the new Aqua on Whiteladies Road. Where the former Colley’s Supper Rooms was, shrouded in dark blue awnings, Aqua have gone for a bright, light-coloured look that shines out next to the glowering United Reform Church. Inside it’s spacious and contemporary – a high ceilinged room split half-way by a partial mezzanine. It seems miraculous too – a brand new restaurant opening just as Fishworks closed over the road. Only open ten days and already bustling with business – maybe all that credit nonsense is over already?
Sister Theresa has left the troubled children of the world to fend for themselves to join me and we’re quickly seated in spacious chairs by the window. As our American waitress fetches mixed breads and olives we order an Orvieto Classico, notwithstanding her helpful observa- tion that this particular wine has a little of the sugar left in it. It makes for rich and piquant drinking, a white wine that you know is wine.
We become strangely interested in the scaf- folding opposite. Bright lighting is picking out random ladders making artful use of a practical necessity.
Despite the attractive economies of the Aqua Classico menu (three courses for £15) we go a la carte. Given the standard Italian set up of antipasti, primi piatti, mains and pizza this needs a bit of mulling over. She gets Funghi al Gorgonzola, chopped Portobello mushrooms on rounds of toast with a hint of pungent cheese. She’d have liked more of the Gorgonzola but enjoys it anyway. I’m very impressed by Polenta alla Griglia – a crisp golden patty of grilled polenta topped with a curled Italian sausage and surrounded with borlotti beans. The sausage is deeply spicy and sizzlingly hot.
Sister T’s Zuppa di Pesce all’Adriatica is preceded by a fingerbowl and side plate which cheers her up. She likes getting stuck into food and she’s not disappointed by the display of shellfish in rich tomato stock that arrives soon after. A pile of mussel shells and langoustine body parts begins to grow on the side plate, all greeted with approval. My Pollo Farcito is a perfectly cooked hunk of chicken breast, stuffed with some more of that Italian sausage and Taleggio cheese and marooned on a small lake of creamy sauce strewn with wilted spinach. It’s a generous portion of classic Italian tastiness, as is the glass of honey drenched Amaretto and mascarpone that follows. Sister Theresa makes short work of Mousse di limone, thus undoing all her ‘Good Works’ in the exercise class before the meal.
They clearly know what they’re doing at Aqua – classic Italian food made well, smart décor but an unimposing ambience, quick and friendly service all adding up to a reliably happy eating experience.
Venue verdict: Food ✭✭✭✭ Service ✭✭✭ Atmosphere ✭✭✭✭
